To the rhythm of the wheels, vast barren stone mountains flickered past the window — giant titans, guardians of the Iranian plateau. From this side, the Alborz mountains looked exhausted by the sun and almost lifeless. Almost — because just a few dozen kilometers later, the train was already passing through ripe pomegranate orchards.
The moment finally arrived: we were driving towards the Caspian Sea, heading north into the province of Mazandaran. In the Middle Ages, this region was known as Tabaristan, and human history here stretches back to the mid-10th millennium BC.
Not far from here stood a true feat of engineering, designed by the Italian engineer Cesare Delleani. Under his guidance, the tallest bridge of its time was built. An imposing structure stretching between two towering cliffs just outside the village. We turned off the main highway and drove straight toward it.