15. June 2026
Modern Tehran is a loud giant. It greets travelers with choking smog in the winter, grabs them by the throat with hot air in the summer, and forces them to quicken their pace. It tests everyone who arrives here, demanding an honest answer: do you love it or do you hate it?
22. April 2026
“There they are!” our friend with the scar on his arm said, continuing to drive. “The Towers of Silence…”
A shiver ran through my body at the realization that these were indeed the very dakhmas, as they are called in Iran. They were already several thousand years old, and what stirred the imagination even more was their purpose — they had once served as burial sites for Zoroastrians.