Ghabel nadare

When I first arrived in Iran, the expression that struck me most came at the checkout counter of a store: “Ghabeli nadare.” Literally, it means: “It’s not worth anything,” or more loosely, “No need to pay.” Imagine buying something, reaching for your wallet, and the cashier smiles and says, “No need to pay, just take it.”

I remember sitting in a park, sipping orange juice, still puzzled. I was asking my husband beside me: why did the juice seller refuse money at first? He smiled and explained: “That’s how it works here — first you refuse politely, and only after they insist again do you accept the payment.” This, I learned, is the famous taarof.

In my country, this would never fly. 

As strange as this ritual of exaggerated politeness may seem, for many Iranians, it’s second nature. Like family ties, the aroma of rice, or the tart flavor of black tea, taarof is deeply woven into the fabric of their culture — passed down through generations.

Now, when I shop in Iran and the smiling seller at the counter says, “Ghabeli nadare,” I smile back and reply, “Aha, boshi.” In Farsi, it means “Okay, be well,” but in Ukrainian, it has meant something like “no fools here.” Then I proudly walk out of the store — having paid, of course.

So if you find yourself in Iran, don’t be confused by overly polite cashiers. Just smile, insist, and yes — be sure to pay.